The next part of the guitar build after shaping the body was to make the neck blank and headstock.
We are working with mostly maple for the neck, but I wanted to tie it all together with the same veneer that I used between the body and top woods.
The headstock also has a myrtle cap to match the top wood on the body, with a veneer in between that and the maple.
Making the Neck Laminates
Like most of my other builds, this guitar is getting a multi-laminate neck. This one is a little bit easier than some others because it is made of just two pieces of maple and one sheet of veneer.
First, I set up a fence on my bandsaw and ripped the maple strips to make up the neck laminates. The neck pattern I wanted to use was basically a thicker piece of maple on the two outer edges, followed by two thinner pieces of accenting maple, a half-thick piece in the middle, and fumed ipe veneers in between each.
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After the rip cuts were done I set the fence to re-saw the correct thickness for the center piece of maple. A couple of runs through the planer cleaned it up nicely and got it ready for gluing.
Then I just cut some strips of veneer with an x-acto blade to go in between each piece of maple.
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Creating the Neck Blank
To take all these pieces and make them into a neck blank, I just flip each piece up on its side.
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And I re-arrange them until I get an end grain pattern like this.
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Next, I did some sanding to make sure that all the gluing edges were nice and flat, then added some glue and clamps.
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Once the glue dried, I cleaned up the surfaces with the jointer and planer.
Note: this is a staged picture, the jointer wasn’t on when I took it.
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I didn’t get to pick out the individual pieces of maple when I ordered them, so I was pleasantly surprised by the color and figure of the thin board. It ended up really popping!
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I’m looking forward to seeing how this neck looks once it’s carved and even more so after it gets some finish on it.
Making the Headstock
I worked on the headstock at the same time as the neck, re-sawing the maple and planing the myrtle to proper thicknesses.
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This is the layout I decided to use for the headstock myrtle. I love the way it looks at an angle.
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There isn’t really much to see with this glue up.
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The next step was to cut the scarf joint angles on both the neck and the headstock while they were squared.
I cleaned the angles up with a sanding block in not too much time.
Cutting out the headstock shape was quick on the bandsaw, then I popped a small sanding drum on my drill press to sand the edges clean.
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I drilled pilot holes through the headstock for each of the tuners, then I drilled the full size holes halfway through from each side.
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Doing it this way prevents pretty much any chance of the wood tearing out around the holes (with the right drill bit).
Joining the Neck and Headstock
I cut the rough taper of the neck before gluing up the scarf joint because it’s easier without the headstock in the way. I cut outside the lines for this so that I have room to clean it up with the router after the fretboard is glued on.
To keep the headstock lined up while gluing, I drill a couple of holes with a small drill bit and use two of the same size bits to act as registration pins to hold the headstock in place while I clamp it up. You can’t see it in the picture, but the drill bits are in between the two blocks.
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To get them out, sometimes just moving them with pliers will do the trick, other times I have to heat the bits (carefully) with a soldering iron just until the glue loosens up on the bit and not on the joint.
These holes will go away when I route for the truss rod.
Now that this glue up is done, I’m moving on to the fretboard inlay! Technically, I already did before I posted this, so stay tuned for that update soon.
Next post: Making the custom fretboard inlay